XFI CAMSHAFTS

[Hacksaw]

I've been watching a lot about these xfi camshaft switchouts...
I've got a 96 3cl 5speed that I recently got, and I'd be interested in doing the cam replacement but don't know crap once you get inside the engine, really... aside from the basics of "how it works."

The general sentiment I received from the car-guys I know was that messing inside the engine for the 20% gain wasn't really monetarily worth it. And, they're right, unless it's relatively easy.

So, I guess the question is... just HOW HARD is the switch REALLY to do, for someone who's never busted into an engine before?

GPR, It's easy...anyone considering this swap should just dive right in...I did it the long way, meaning I removed the crank pulley and timing cover, and it was only a two hour job. I couldn't bring myself to cut a perfect condition timing cover in half. Anyways, 2 hours...most of us waste that much time in front of the computer each night. I would be more than willing to talk people through it, if that's what it takes to motivate someone. Just PM me.

Parts You'll Need:
One XFi cam regrind from Delta Cams (very first post)
One Valve Cover Gasket set that includes the 4 grommets (about $16.00)
One new O-ring Seal for your distributor that has been leaking anyway.
One Gasket for between the distributor adapter block and #3 cam cap. (take heed, there are TWO bolts that hold the adapter to the head and cam cap...one bolt is revealed once you pull the distributor.)
One camshaft Lip Seal that resides in #1 cam cap (behind the cam gear)
One Timing Belt if yours is near the serviceable mileage limit.

Tools You'll need:
One 10mm socket (I used a deepwell 3/8 drive
One 10mm combination wrench
One 8mm six-point socket with long extension to remove the 4 or 5 crankshaft pulley bolt through fenderwell in 5th gear (neutral to rotate engine)
One 17mm? 1/2 drive w/breaker bar and metal dowel to break loose the cam bolt (cam has hole for dowel to keep it from rotating, pad the valve covers' sealing surface!)
One Center Punch and Small Hammer to rotate the steel/rubber grommets that are under the acorn nuts holding the valve cover on. (tap in CCW direction to spin off. I would think a small, electric, handheld engraver would work perfect here, but didn't have mine handy at the time.)
One Induction Timing Light and a Paper Clip to jumper the diagnostic terminal when setting your ignition timing. (located on firewall behind driver's strut tower with rubber boot over it. Sticker on hood diagrams which two connectors to jumper.)
Some camshaft "break-in" lube would be ideal for cam lobes and lifters.
20 minutes at about 2000rpm!!! Tach would be nice here...

Loosening the alternator isn't necessary to remove the alt/water pump belt, just remove the water pump pulley bolts and tip it off its' pilot. When installing it, just stretch it back onto the pilot of the pump.

This is by no means an exhaustive guide...I'm sure I've forgotten something. Just trying to help you visualized the project to some extent.

EDIT: I wanted to add, that when I marked my timing belts' position, I used a black Sharpie. I made a mark on one tooth of each gear (cam & crank) and also colored the engaged teeth of the belt that meshed on ither side of the gear mark I made. Start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal!!! Also start job with sparkplugs out and #1 cylinder at top dead center with timing tag mark lined up. Have at it!!!

Hacksaw.

[jonl370]

My mileage for the last 208 miles has been 39.53 MPG. Most of this is city driving and a couple of my commutes were substantially longer than typical. It took me over an hour to drive 8 miles that typically takes me just 20 minutes. The other time It was around 40 minutes. This is obviously why my MPG is lower than it should be, but still very respectable for stop and go traffic.

I haven't been able to get an accurate assessment of my MPG increase from the Delta cam as it's very difficult to compare the type of driving that I do. If I were to give a rough estimate, I believe it would be around 3 MPG that Hacksaw has also observed (Around 8%). According to the "Fuel Economy Database", the 94 XFi model is around 16% more efficient than the standard model. This sounds logical as the cam would add around 8% and the higher gearing would make up the difference. I'm sure the ECM also helps contribute to the increase, but not as much as the cam/gearing. This all speculation of course.

jonl370

[bennie442]

I have a 1993 xfi since it was new. Great on gas, however, summers in North Carolina can be brutally hot and humid. What to do? Buy a Metro with a/c of course! I found a great buy on a 1991 Metro with a newly rebuilt motor, auto trans and greatly appreciated a/c. Mileage around town is between 34-39 with intermittent a/c use. Has anyone installed the xfi cam into a car like this? If so, how were results?

[jonl370]

My Mileage for the last 224 miles is 42.5MPG (All city driving). I forgot to mention that both of my windows have been rolled down during all of these reports. It's not worth suffering through 90+ temps just for a couple more MPG.

[gpr]

oh wow. I am getting really good mileage without the camshaft switch.

My 96 only has 65K on it, or 68K now... I bought it 2 weeks ago, put a new cat on it ($75 at rockauto)... I was getting over 50mpg average driving regularly, and please note that actually INCLUDES even the very first tank I sat behind a standard.

I drove out from Rhode Island to Colorado this week... with the back packed to the gills and a kayak strapped to the top, and I averaged just high of the 40 mark. windows open much of the time, and just unspeakable wind resistance, weight, and pushing her past what she should have been doing on some of those hills with so much working against. I WAS burning oil like a madman, though... about a quart every 500 miles.

I certainly expect to be back up over 50mpg driving regularly without really doing any hypermiling or modding or even paying attention.



Thanks for the step by step, I'm inspired! I doubt that the pump's not pumping the same... (weights and measures is no joke). I assume it has to do with position of the nozzle as well as the STRENGTH of the fluid (think of trying to fill a glass of water with a high power faucet... you'll pretty much never get it full).
I have been overflowing pretty much every time, just to be sure... stopping with the gas right at the edge of visibility. I would also encourage you not to try and estimate based on a 40 mile sample or anything, but at LEAST 250 miles. It gives a more accurate sample, and lets little things like the level of the gas, if it is a very minimal thing, be less of a deciding factor. Basically, a much smaller percentage of error.



My new question is the O2 sensor I put on just as I was leaving... it was a universal, and my computer doesn't like it (service engine light won't go off). It runs well, I assume it's just finicky and wants the OEM part. As of right now, it's simply an annoyance.

[Hacksaw]

Did you clear the codes out of the computer by pulling the tail/back fuse or disconnecting the battery?

[gpr]

yeah, cleared them a few times, it'll come back on after a few quick errands.

[atleastitsnotaford]

did you use the nifty wire splices it came with or did you solder the wires together?
if you used the splices, try soldering them. i have seen this problem with air fuel gauges that tap into the o2 sensor side of things, and soldering the joint usually fixes it.

[lurker]

now that the newness has worn off, how are you guys doing now, mileage-wise? overall improvement?

[lurker]

hello? any updates?

[Hacksaw]

Sorry Lurker, I haven't been doing anything exciting with my Metro other than driving it daily...haven't logged in here in quite a while either. I've been over at geometroforum mostly.

My mileage has been absolutely horrible lately here in the cold Michigan weather. I'm averaging around 39-40 mpg and can't believe it! I have a coolant heater installed, but haven't been using it lately because I'm not on a schedule that allows me to know when to plug it in or not. The heater helps, but overall mpg is still way down because of the cold and snow.

Here's my fuel log link over on ecomodder: http://ecomodder.com/forum/em-fuel-log.php?vehicleid=1126

Hacksaw.

[keyseqpt]

I RECENTLY HAD A CAM REGROUND TO XFI SPECS BY DELTA CAM.VERY QUICK TURNAROUND,GOOD COMMUNICATION!CARDS ARE NOT IN ON MPG YET.IF EVER I NEED CAM WORK DONE AGAIN THIS CO. WILL BE MY FIRST CHOICE!VERY PROFESSIONAL.